South Africa - July 2026
Apart from a long weekend to Scotland and a long weekend in Devon in April, the start of the year was pretty full on for both of us. Therefore, we were both exhausted and ready for a solid two weeks off. And there is no better place on the planet than Ingwelala. The flight to South Africa was only slightly delayed meaning that by the time we had our bags and rental car (and snacks from Woolies) it was after 12pm. Thankfully the roads were very quiet and even with the mandatory Harries pancakes stop in Dullstroom we were through the Strydom tunnel before sunset. However, it was properly dark by the time we went through the control gate.
Luckily Luc and Matthew had flown in earlier in the day and done enough shopping to get us through to the middle of the week. This took lots of pressure off our drive and meant that we could get straight to Ingwelala. The tone for the holiday was set early with a wonderful welcome by two black backed jackals. Then on the main road just past Ntsiri, two beautiful lionesses who walked along the road with us for around 10 minutes before we decided to pass them and let them continue.
Sunday took a slow start before we headed out on a very fruitful drive. We made a strong start on the bird list, and were fortunate enough to see a male lion down in the riverbed from a lookout point. After breakfast we responded to a call from Tess and Josh that a group of 5 wild dog were resting in camp. In the evening Tess joined us for the game drive and we were once again spoiled with excellent sightings which included hyena out on the farm and a very impressive different male lion who we followed through the reserve onto the main road before he roared right next to us. The night was rounded off by some very cute frogs at the causeway near the main gate. A great start to the trip.
The next morning started off overcast with a cold mist in the valleys. We decided to head to one of the lesser travelled parts of the farm and were duly rewarded with two beautiful elephant bulls and a lovely pair of jackals. The rest of the drive was quiet from a mammal perspective but good for birding and snakeskin spotting in this case it was a Mozambique spitting cobra skin. Even though it was just a skin it did not stop Sam panicking. We started the evening drive with Sam getting her second panic of the day when she poked at a struggling catfish in a drying waterhole. While that was a highlight the true highlight of the day was when following a stunning sunset we spotted a beautiful rare caracal. The cat was amazingly calm with both the vehicle and the lights and we spent a good few minutes with it. By far Rhys’ best caracal sighting of his life and only his 3rd at Ingwelala.
Tuesday was one of our shortest drive days but it did not slow down the sightings especially birds with a black chested snake eagle carrying a snake, green-winged pytilia, little bee eaters, saddle billed storks and Egyptian geese being harassed by a baby crocodile. That night we had a fantastic braai with Tess and Josh at Nyala cottage.
After a late night we decided to stay behind on the morning drive and head out birding later in the day. This time it was the general game which was excellent with lovely herds of zebra and kudu and impala. However, on the drive we only did around 20kms of driving in 3 hours as the birds continued to be ticked off. This time the highlights were a African hawk eagle on a kill, cardinal woodpeckers, yellow-breasted apalis, Black backed puff back and a very friendly emerald spotted dove.
That evening our traditional lucky charms Ash and Dave arrived. They did not disappoint even with the added pressure of Tess and Josh on the vehicle. On the first drive we were treated to a male lion, baby hippo, a cackle of hyenas and presumably the same caracal in almost the same place as we’d seen it two days prior. You could not write it.
Thursday morning was a more normal drive with a lovely little herd of buffalo, a straited heron on eggs and a hippo loaded with terrapins. While making bacon pancakes for breakfast someone called in a leopard sighting on the far end of the farm. Given Matthew had never seen a leopard, Sam, Luc and Matthew hopped on the car and sped off to go see it and managed to get a decent sighting. That afternoon Sian and Theo arrived at 73 and Sam and Rhys moved out to guineafowl cottage in anticipation for the next day’s arrivals.
Friday was exciting, Rhys and Josh headed into town to collect our English guests Katherine, Russ and Jude. We gave our guests their first experience of Hoedspruit on a payday Friday, but we managed to get out in decent time with plenty food, snacks and beer. The drive in to the Umbabat was an amazing experience as it was their first time seeing elephants, impala, zebra and wildebeest. We got back just in time for a quick evening drive. Sam had done an awesome job renting a second vehicle called Ivy so we could go out in 73 Ivy and 73 Bessie (our personal vehicle). Splitting after drinks we were fortunate enough to see a typical leopard sighting. An incredible sight with the spotlight from Sam followed by just enough of a view for everyone on the car from around 200m away. Still mind-blowing for our guests but just a taste of what was about to come.
On Saturday morning we got a brief sighting of the endangered ground hornbill while watching a very relaxed herd of elephants. This set the scene for yet another wonderful birding drive. We got to show our UK guests some of the best of South African birds. Highlights included a lilac breasted roller, giant kingfisher, buffalo weavers, golden breasted buntings and a melba finch. Unfortunately, one of the birds we saw was the invasive common myna. This is problematic and the conservation team are doing what they can to limit their impact.
On the evening drive we decided to have drinks at one of our favourite spots with Ash and Dave for their last evening. Just as twilight was becoming darkness a vehicle from the neighbouring farm broke through the bushes to tell us of a pride of lions heading in our direction and likely to cross into our property around 75m south of where we were all standing around the cooler box. It just so happened to be that they were exactly correct and after rapidly packing up the drinks we found the pride just 75m away. After spending a wonderful 30mins with the pride we went straight home.
Unfortunately Sunday morning saw Dave and Ash depart for a trip to the northern Kruger and Mapungubwe. Their departure then met with the arrival of the Sanne family and family friend Kelsey who came out for the day. It also just so happened to be Theo’s birthday. Due to the quantity of cars we decided to park the Sanne’s car in the garage to save some space. This meant we quickly popped our head into Nyala cottage where we got a heads up that “our girl” had a kill in a tree. It had not been reported on the radio as only the cubs had been seen and it was not known if she was around so they did not want cars to bring attention to the kill. By the time we got there “our girl” had returned and even though it was pushing 30 degrees we sat and watched her feed for a long while! A truly special sighting for all our guests. The day was finished with a wonderful boma braai to celebrate Theo’s birthday.
On Monday we had the privilege of moving from 73 and the cottages to Sibon camp. With exactly 16 people it meant that everyone could stay at Sibon which meant it was a more personal affair. The camp was amazing and we were greeted by brown headed parrots and a mating pair of pearl spotted owls. The small dam out front of the lodge was almost constantly graced by animals from the moment we arrived until we left. After we moved into Sibon we went for a sundowner at the top of buffels where we saw a roving honey badger. After drinks in the dark Russ also spotted his first cham cham! The evening’s entertainment was then provided by Theo who managed to sink Bessie at 3rd crossing. We then had to call out “superman” Ruan and the 4×4 tractor to come and get Bessie out of the crossing.
The next morning was a mixed start with some heading off at the crack of dawn, some leaving at 7 and a sleep in being disrupted by the call of wild dogs on the main road. This meant that all three vehicles were out on the farm and we managed to park up next to each other and enjoy the wild dogs. The rest of the day was spent relaxing around Sibon playing games and Boule. The evening drive saw probably the best sighting of the holiday when Sam spotted a leopard in a tree deep into a block on Argyle. The consensus from the joining vehicles was that it was an incredible spot. While trying to get a better view from a different road we ran into a pair of African wild cats which was an unusual sighting given how light it was. The grumpy cat indicated that it was still very much trying to wake up! Just to cement how good the drive was near home we spotted a Verraux eagle owl. To round off the evening following dinner a large male lion parked up and roared right at the camp entrance before coming to the waterhole to drink. What a day!
Wednesday contiunued where Tuesday left off. A pride of lions with cubs in a “cubble puddle” a really nice sighting after which spotted a rare sharpes greysbok near Motswari corner. The goal was rhino but it continued to be elusive. Sam and Rhys then went for a lunch drive around buffels to try and increase the bird numbers. Unfortunately none of the bird parties delivered and only when back at the office to fill the car did they add a new bird of a Marico sunbird (it was still a very good 3 hour drive). The evening drive with the full team included 2 lovely fish eagles and 10 hippos including a very small baby. On the way home two more owls were added to the list; spotted eagle own and white faced owl.
At dinner Luc and Matthew introduced a game of BINGO to the group where each person had their own card. We would have from Dinner until Dinner to try and get BINGO. There were two schools of thought, the early risers and the late drivers. The late drivers were treated to the same pride of lions from the morning although more active and roaring (not that it mattered to Jude who slept though it). The rest of the night drive was disappointing with only springhares added from the standard list of nightlife.
The competition ramped up on the final day with a risky drive out to one of the more quiet corners of the farm in search of rhino once again. Unfortunately all that was managed was an elephant and a broken drive shaft for Bessie. The callout however, meant that Sam had to come fetch us from camp which gave us a lovely sighting of a goliath heron at the causeway. The evening gave yet another incredible sighting this time of a leopard male just as we were making our way back into camp. The big boy gave a lovely showing walking along the road before turning off. This also gave Rhys the BINGO win!
The next day we unfortunately had to hit the road back to Johannesburg for our flight back to the UK. Even more unfortunate was that Russ was feeling poorly. Luckily, the bush was not done with us and give us one last special sighting as we were driving out of a beautiful male rhino with a lovely horn. It was the most special way to end an even more special holiday. Will be a challenge to beat that.
